An Ouji Overview: Part 5 Tops and Outerwear

Nov 28, 2013

Happy Thanksgiving! I bring you a very overdue part of the Ouji Overview.
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Tops are essential in every outfit otherwise everyone would be naked and cold! Blouses are foundation pieces. More blouses can make your wardrobe more versatile. If you want to fancy up your outfit, start adding layers. There is no limit to how many things you can wear; just be able to breathe and not get heat stroke.

Blouses and Cutsews
Blouses are pretty self explanatory. They should at least be semi-fitted to your body and cover up your torso (no cleavage or midriff). If it's too large, the excess fabric will create bulges and make you look larger. If it's too small, your body will strain the seams or fabric and buttons may gape. Generally, very thin and shiny fabrics should be avoided. There are exceptions to the shiny rule if it's a nice quality material (ex. costume satin that costs $3 per yard is bad). Alternatively, cutsews can also be worn if you want to be more casual since they are made of knit materials.

Collars and Necklines
These aren't the only types, but they are the most common. High and pointed collars are the most elegant. Round and sailor can be either elegant or casual depending on the rest of the outfit. Square and and cowl are mostly casual and often used for cutsews. Certain neckwear will look better with certain collar types.

Sleeves 
Sleeveless and short-sleeved tops are great for areas with high temperatures. With sleeveless blouses, it is possible to be too bare, so either accessorize to balance the bareness or cover up. For even more versatility, look for blouses with detachable sleeves. For beginners, I would advise avoiding enormous bell/princess sleeves like this.

Outerwear

Cardigans and Boleros
Avoid too many ruffles or lace. Many lolita cardigans and boleros are too feminine for ouji.
Vests
Related terms: waistcoat, gilet (long)
Vests are the most widely varied outerwear. They come in all lengths and also come in many different styles like underbust, halter, swallowtail, etc. These are usually the most ornate items.

Corsets
Related terms: bustier, cincher (waist only)
Corsets in ouji are typically used for decorative layering purposes instead of defining the waist. They are worn over blouses. Plastic-boned corsets do not drastically change the waist, but can smooth out the area. Metal-boned will define much more, but since this is boystyle, it isn't necessary.
Jackets and Coats
Jackets are the shorter of the two and usually end at the waist or hips. Coats are longer than jackets. It shouldn't be too tight, but shouldn't be too loose either. Remember you don't want to look sharp and not too bulky. Lolita coats may not work since they need a petticoat to support the coat.

Capes
Related terms: capelet (short), mantle, cloak (long)
Fully functional capes will keep you warm. The warmest materials are velvet and wool.

Miscellaneous

Tips:
  • Important measurements: bust, waist, shoulder width, arm length, arm circumference, torso length
  • Most lolita blouses can work, but be wary of the super feminine elements (ex. super large bell sleeves, full shirring, cross neck straps, too much lace, too many bows, etc.).
  • Tucking in your shirt is a small detail that can instantly polish an outfit. With the blouse tucked in, waistbands and belts can be shown off and gives you a neater appearance. For casual and punk styles, it's acceptable to leave it untucked because it gives a messier appearance. Shortcut: blouses with plain hems, tuck in; blouses with ruffle or any decorative hems, leave out or tuck in. 
  • Bust reduction is completely optional. A sports bra can help subtract a small amount if that's all you need. If more reduction is needed, consider using a proper chest binder (personal recommendation: the Underworks tri-top). Using bandages or tape to bind is very unsafe. Take a break if you experience difficulty breathing or discomfort.  

Part 4  |  Table of Contents  |  Part 6

Pattern: Otome no Sewing Book 4

Nov 20, 2013


The Otome no Sewing series has been gaining popularity with seamstresses over the past year. The fourth book was released earlier this month and features some ouji patterns! The ouji specific patterns include a mini hat, a capelet, and suspender shorts. Additionally, most of the blouses (from the past volumes, too) also work for ouji coordinates.

Image courtesy of kaoriloveage
The drawback is that the entire book is in Japanese meaning you'll have to rely on the diagrams unless you can read it. The sizing will also be limited especially for the pants, so pattern alteration is most likely needed.

Mook info: 
English Title: Otome no Sewing Book 4/Sewing Book of Girls 4
Japanese Title: 乙女のソーイングBOOK 4
ISBN-10: 4834736806
ISBN-13: 978-4834736809
96 pages

Available to purchase from these online shops:
YesAsia - This book is an item for free international shipping.
Kinokuniya - The link is for the US branches, but all Kinokunuya stores should be able to order it.
Kanga Kanga
Amazon JP
Rakuten JP



 Maybe it's time to start an ouji sewing pattern list, eh?

King of Bodyline Mr. Yan's in Wonderland Birthday Sale

Oct 19, 2013

Greece is now wonderland according to the boss.
Every once in a while, I browse the Bodyline website, but I rarely buy anything because Mr. Yan needs to learn how to take better stock photos. This year I noticed they started adding a bunch of ouji items, so when I saw the sale, I had to buy these items since they were so cheap. There are never enough Bodyline reviews, right? The yen conversion trick shaved off a good amount of my order.

Timeline
September 1: order placed with airmail tracking
September 5: tracking number received
September 6: order shipped
September 17: arrival in the US
September 23: arrival to me
September 23: sent a customer service e-mail and refunded the same day

Items
Blouse with jabot
Product No: p227
Size:Type:(owh)-Size:(s)
Price: ¥1,199 
Length 51.5cm
Bust 90cm
Waist 78cm
Shoulder length 34cm
Sleeve length 19.5cm


Comments: Bodyline's measurements are accurate. The black bow and neck strap on the jabot is made of satin. There is some shine to it, but it's not awful. The neck strap closes with a button. The lace on the top tier of the jabot is low quality, but not scratchy. The jabot does not come with chains like in the stock photo. The color of the blouse is supposed to be offwhite, but I think it looks closer to pure white.


High-waisted shorts
Product No: P230
Size:Type:(blk)-Size:(m)
Price: ¥1,199
Length 52cm
Waist 66cm
Hip 96cm


Comments: Bodyline's measurements are a little small. They were sold out of the size I wanted, so I went a size down (although you should always size up for comfort). Luckily, the actual waist of these pants are 72 cm. The hip measurement is at least 10 cm larger than the BL measurements. The ribbon is awful, so I will be getting rid of it. Plus, it looks a bit silly to have corset lacing on the front and the back at the same time. The waistband has 4 channels of plastic boning. It doesn't seem like the boning will stab through the fabric any time soon (common problem with Alice and the Pirates's boning). The fabric wrinkles a bit easily, so sometimes it looks like you have a wedgie from the backside. They seem to be sold out now. Most importantly, these pants have functional pockets!


Rockinghorse boots
Product No:shoes277
Size:Type:(brw)-Size:(230)
Price: ¥3,199

Comments: Bodyline's sizing is accurate. The insole measures exactly 23 cm. My usual bodyline size is 225, but based on the old pair of BL ribbon RHS I had, 225 destroyed my toes. The shaft is pretty generous. Even when I laced the tightly tied the laces, the ankle area was still a little roomy for me. For reference my ankle circumference is 22 cm, so hopefully I won't fall and twist my ankle in the future. The max calf measurement at the top of the boot is about 30 cm. Much to my surprise, these were inside of a shoebox. I'm used to BL just throwing shoes in a plastic shipping bag. However, when I received the package, the boots were already tearing apart. On one boot, the front of the boot, platform, and sole were detached from each other. On the other boot, the heel was coming apart from the platform. I sent BL a message with the picture to the right.
"Hi bodyline, I just received my package. I have a problem with shoes277. The glue you used is not very good. The foam came separated from the boot. I received it in the condition in the picture. Can I have partial refund? Thank you for your attention."
I honestly wasn't expecting a reply because everyone knows BL's customer service is awful. Surprisingly though, I got a full refund for the boots within 7 minutes! When I got the refund, it was like 6 AM in Japan time, so I'm very satisfied with the response time. I'll be attempting to glue these back together.  


Wristcuffs
Product No: Acc1031
Size:Type:(blk)-Size:(blk), Type:(owh)-Size:(blk)
Price: ¥799*2

Comments: They are exactly like the stock image. The minimum circumference (elastic not stretched) is 20 cm and the maximum stretch is 31 cm. I actually ended up getting the wrong color because BL only labeled their chart with "size" and "type" which doesn't help at all. "Type" ended up being the bow color and "size" ended up being the cuff color. Here's are the correct labels, so no one makes the mistake I did.


Total cost of this coordinate is 1198 yen + 1198 yen + (3199-3199 yen) + 750 yen (shipping) = 3148 yen. That's roughly $32 which was a great price. Sales are great and perfect for an ouji on a budget! Here's a picture of everything together minus the wristcuffs. I actually hope to see BL add more ouji designs in the future.