Jabberwocky: The Beautiful and Strange Gothic Fashion Magazine

May 23, 2017

Not too long after the announcement of the end of  KERA physical publications, h.NAOTO designer Naoto Hirooka announced that a new web magazine titled Jabberwocky (ジャバウォッキー) would be launching on May 10. Taking its name from the Lewis Carroll poem, this magazine will feature gothic, dark fantasy, genderless, steampunk, Victorian, and black lolita styles displaying a unique collection of fashion, hair, makeup, culture, and art. The magazine will publish 4-6 pages daily totaling over 120 pages per month.

The debut cover features long-time lolita model Midori Fukasawa wearing items from h.NAOTO STEAM styled in a very doll-like manner. Other models to appear in volume one include IBI, Yura, Satsuki Nakayama, Yui Minakata, Sarahphina, and Julia.

Magazine Staff
Editor: Mariko Suzuki
Writer: Kageyama Mika
Fashion Design: h.NAOTO
Graphic Designer: Yaegashi
Photo Graphic: MAI

Notably on staff is Mariko Suzuki who previously worked on Eternita, Lolita in Tokyo Wonderland, and formerly KERA, KERA Maniax, and the Gothic & Lolita Bible. Jabberwocky will be her first web project.


Naoto's announcement and the website were only made three days in advance prior to the launch. Just based on the cover, I was expecting an over-glorified h.NAOTO catalog and that's pretty much what it turned out to be. Naoto fans will enjoy, but it is pretty boring if you're not into his gothic and punk aesthetic. The pages are generously sized at 900 x 1200 pixels each which is a very generous upgrade from the tiny pictures that usually come from Japanese sources. Unfortunately, the pages are all in JPG format, so the text can't be ran through Google Translate which just turns it into a picture blog for me since I can't read Japanese. I was hoping for PDF format to be able to grab text off the interviews, but you can never expect too much. Compared to KERA, Jabberwocky aims to attract an older crowd. Instead of bright colors, we're seeing monochromatic colors with minimal text, so the focus is mainly on the clothing. The good thing is it's free!

I am uncertain about what to expect. Jabberwocky looks like it's aiming to be a long term magazine, but with Naoto always being inconsistent, it's hard to tell. Mariko's last work, Eternita, only had one volume. It will be interesting to see how long it will last since digitial magazines are still relatively new to the Japanese alternative street fashion scene. So far, the contents are clean and eye-catching, so I look forward to their upcoming posts. How are you liking Jabberwocky so far? What kind of content would you like to see?

Jabberwocky: OHP | Twitter | Facebook

Ouji and Aristocrat Sewing Patterns and Tutorials List

May 16, 2017

This list contains sewing patterns suitable for formal boystyle, specifically ouji and aristocrat. For lolita sewing pattern lists, please refer to F Yeah Lolita and Miss Carol Belle's Lolita Fashion Sewing and Pattern Archive. For sewing help, please refer to Sew Loli or Lolita Sewing Collective

(List is still in progress) 

Patterns

Gosu Rori

Patterns are in Japanese.
  • Vol. 1
    #08 double breasted swallowtail jacket
    #10 gothic coat OP
    #11 sleeveless punk blouse, long layered skirt
    #13-14 punk blouse, neck tie, skirt, breeches, arm band, tie
  • Vol. 3
    #14 bat collar blouse with jabot
    #15 above knee and mid-calf breeches
    #17 punk skirt belted pants
    #18 punk sleeveless swallowtail blouse
    #43 sweet/classic square collar blouse with sausage sleeves
    #44 pleated front bell sleeves blouse
    #46 frill long sleeve blouse, visual kei bondage pants
    #47 mini crown
  • Vol. 4
    #01 bat capelet and mantle
    #09 tie, and front zipper pants
    #10 punk blouse with lace trims
    #11 sweet capelet and peter pan collar long sleeve blouse
    #14 short necktie
    #15 mini hat
    #33 sailor parka and sailor breeches
    #36 pleated collar blouse
    #41 BJD punk chain shirt, bondage pants
  • Vol. 5
    #04-05 punk sleeveless blouse, asymmetric skirt, bondage pants
    #09 gothic long coat
    #49 mini hat
    #51 bell sleeves blouse
    #52 corset-back vest
    #53 aristocrat long skirt
  • Vol. 15
    #17 side flare blouse
    #18 pleated frill jabot
    #19 short pants
    #20 ribbon mini hat
    #21 bow tie
    #22 cuff sleeve frill blouse
    #23 suspender breeches
    #24 jacket with hood
    #25 punk zipper belt long pants
    #33 punk breeches

Gothic & Lolita Bible

Patterns are in Japanese. 

Otome no Sewing/ 乙女のソ-イング/Sewing Book of Girls

Patterns are in Japanese. Come in S, M, and L size. Each book contains 20+ patterns and a few tutorials.
Extra links: size reference/sewing advice | overviews of books with pictures | resizing patterns tutorial
  • Book 1
    #01 juliette sleeve peter pan collar blouse
    #10 short sleeve high collar yoke blouse
    #27 frilly juliette sleeve blouse with bow tie
  • Book 2
    #01 long sleeve bow tie blouse
    #08 mini pom pom beret
    #09 cape with pockets
    #10 round collar capelet
    #25 hooded capelet
  • Book 3
    #01 long sleeve peter pan collar blouse with bow tie
    #11 short sleeve peter pan collar blouse
    #14 wrist cuffs
    #15 mini sailor hat
  • Book 4
    #01 frilly high neck collar bell sleeves blouse
    #04 short capelet
    #13 ruffle bloomers (can be adapted to pants)
    #22 long sleeve blouse with back shirring
    #26 mini top hat
    #27 short capelet
    #28 suspender short pants
  • Book 5
    #01 long sleeve peter pan collar blouse with bow tie
    #08 short sleeve blouse with bow tie
    #14 corset-style bodice
    #37 sailor beret
    #38 short sleeve sailor OP (can be shortened to a blouse)
  • Book 6
    #05 echarpe
    #10 long sleeve bow tie blouse
    #15 boater hat
    #17 long capelet
    #18 suspender knee length short pants
    #27 sweet jacket with heart pockets
    #30 coat with detachable capelet
    #36 sweet jacket with heart pockets and fur trim
  • Book 7
    #02 long sleeve peter pan collar blouse
    #10 detachable yoke with bowtie
    #29 long sleeve peter pan collar blouse
    #34 sailor cutsew
    #36 beret
  • Book 8
    #03 fur stole
    #05 detachable sleeves/arm warmers
    #09 corset cummerbund
    #10 wrist cuffs
    #14 capelet
    #15 long sleeve peter pan collar blouse
    #16 suspender breeches
    #17 mini hat
    #29 mid-length cape
    #30 jabot blouse
    #31 suspender breeches
    #39 long sleeve bowtie blouse
    #46 mid-length cape
  • Book 9
  • Book 10

Commercial Sewing Patterns

Commercial patterns come in multiple sizes and are readily available to most areas. They will usually have to be modified to fit the ouji aesthetic.
  • Burda2459 Men's Pirate & Casanova
    2461 Children's Prince & Mozart
    2471 Napoleon Men's jacket, vest, pants
    2767 History 1848 Men's coats, vest, pants
    6871 Mens Wear, Sports Wear
  • ButterickB5687 Misses' Cape, Jacket, Skirt and Pants
    B6108 Shawl Collar Jackets, Bibs and Skirt
    B6255 Misses' Oversized Collar Coats
    B6340 Men's Banded Jacket, Breeches and Jodhpurs
    B6339 Men's Single or Double-Breasted Vests
    B6400 Misses' Boned, Back-Pleat Jackets
    B6433 Misses' Banded Jacket, Jodphurs, and Breeches
  • McCall'sM4139 Misses'/Men's Lined and Unlined Cape Costumes
    M4321 Men's Shawl Collar Vests, Bow Tie and Cummerbund
    M6228 Misses'/Men's Lined Button-Front Vests
    M6770 Ruffled Jacket, Bustle, Skirt and Pants
    M6800 Misses'/Miss Petite Flared Coats, Belt and Detachable Collar/Hood
    M6818 Floor-Length Coats, Capelet, Cape, Necklace and Dickey
    M7003 Men's Notch Collar Coat, Vest, Pants and Tie
    M7023 Misses' Low-Cut Vests
    M7140 Misses' Ruffled Jacket, Skirt and Tournure
    M7256 Misses' Ruffled Coats
    M7335 Hats in Five Styles
    M7374 Men's Collared and Seamed Coats
    M7399 Single or Double-Breasted Vests and Flat-Front Pants
    M7456 Seamed Jacket, Stirrup Leggings and Cape
    M7457 Men's Embellished Jacket, Pull-On Pants and Cravat
    M7513 Misses' Notch-Collar, Peplum Jackets
    M7555 Underbust, Corset-Style Vests
    M7585 Men's Three-Quarter-Length Coat and Vest Costume
    M7616 Misses' Lined Costume Vest and Jacket with Shaped Front and Back Hemlines
  • Simplicity
    1039 Men's Cosplay Costumes
    3677 Misses' Pirate Costumes
    4923 Men's Costumes (Pirate)
    5794 Misses' Capes
    8075 Misses' Steampunk Costumes
    8235 Men's Cosplay Costume Pattern
    8361 Hats in Three Sizes
    8408 Men's Shirt and Vests
    8263 Misses' Capes and Capelets
    EA251701 Men's Cape Coat
    EA258101 Miss and men's costume coat
  • Vintage

Miscellaneous Tutorials



Found a pattern to add to the list? Comment below and I'll add it in!
Disclaimer: I am not a seamstress.